Saturday, August 9, 2014

1812 Musician Coatee!!!

This is a custom project for a friend I've been excited about.  It's an American militia musician's coatee ca. 1812, based on a couple of originals.  The coatee has false lapels and closes at the front with hooks and eyes.  The body is constructed of the best quality scarlet kersey, lined in the sleeves with muslin, and in the tails with white serge, which also serves as the false turnbacks.  The trim is double vellum metallic lace, and the buttons are from a vintage West Point dress coat.  The coatee is entirely hand sewn with linen and silk threads.

Hooks and eyes set into the facings.

Detail of hand set turnbacks and gold lace lozenge.

Flase turnbacks.

Detail showing skirt pocket opening.

Saturday, June 14, 2014

P1839 Forage Cap!

My first attempt at a pattern of 1839 US Army forage cap.  The body is made of dark blue wool broadcloth, interfaced with heavy hemp canvas, and lined with brown cotton sateen.  The crown is welted and padded with wool batting.  The visor is painted and varnished using period recipes.  It is attached with a leather welt, per originals.  The varnished leather chinstrap is attached with two flat brass buttons.  The fold-down cape is tied with black silk ribbons, and attaches with two hand sewn buttonholes.  Still looking for a source for the correct buttons.

Saturday, May 17, 2014

Short stays!

This is a set of short stays I recently put together for my wife.  It's a simple pattern I cut, exhibiting many of the common aspects of early to mid nineteenth century stays.  It is lightly boned at the front, side, and back, with some cording at the underbust.  It has two double-gored bust pieces, and two completely removable shoulder straps.  The binding is self fabric bias.  The fabric is cotton drill, and it is entirely hand stitched in linen thread.

Detail showing cording and bust gores.

Side detail showing cording, side boning, and bias binding.

Back detail showing lacing eyelets.

Detail of shoulder strap.

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Mle. 1897 Tente Abri Individuelle

Here are some new pictures of the French WW1 tents I've been producing.  The original half was assembled from two panels of 36" light-weight tan cotton, stitched selvege to selvege.  It has 2" hems at bottom and top, and 2 1/4" hems at the sides.  The hems were stitched in one long continuous line from inside to outside, looping at the corners.  Each corner, as well as the lower center, has two hand stitched grommets for rope lines.  Along each end and the top are seven evenly spaced hand-stitched buttonholes and corresponding buttons.  This one has the repro buttons provided by Brett Johnson.  Along the center line and in an arc at top center there are a series of tabs which (I believe) allow the tent to be used as a sort of poncho.  I have tried to reproduce the original in meticulous detail, though I confess the fabric is still a bit light compared to the original.  A good coat of waterproofing should help!

Wednesday, March 19, 2014

1770s Breeches!

These are some linen breeches I made for a friend.  All hand stitched, except for the inseams and side seams.  Small fall front.  Corner flap pockets.  Pewter buttons and brass knee buckles.

Friday, February 15, 2013

1840s Military Broadfall Trousers!

These are warm weather (summer) trousers for the Mexican War period, from a pattern I extrapolated from period tailor's guides and photos of original garments.  Some construction details, including the single welt pocket in the bearer (the original had none), were derived from a very nice pair of repros (I believe by Steve Abolt) I borrowed.  The main feature of these trousers is the ultra high waist that is so necessary for wear with the short jackets and coatees of the period.  The waist rises well above the navel, lying close to the rib cage. Now you can wear a properly cut jacket without your shirt peeking through!

The trousers are constructed of unbleached twilled cotton canvas (basically denim).  All visible stitching is by hand, though interior seams are machined.  All allowances are hand felled, and buttonholes and eyelets are hand stitched.  The pictured buttons are 1/2" bone, though future trousers will have pewter or stamped tin buttons.  I can now produce these in a number of sizes, cost TBD.

Trousers, jacket, shirt, and collar by A.J. Keehan.  Forage cap by Don Smith.  Stock by Nick Duvall.  Bootees by Robert Serio.  Quilt by Judith Peebles.

Monday, February 11, 2013

New! Cincinnati Depot shelter halves!

Now available to order.  Type 2b Cincinnati Depot shelter halves.  This one is based on tent #11 from The Federal Civil War Shelter Tent by Fred Gaede.  It is made from three panels of cotton drill, pieced horizontally, and machine stitched.  The buttonholes and grommets are done by hand.  This tent features darkened bone buttons with backing reinforcements, 1/4" manila ropes, and George F. Moulton's inspector stamp.  These features are common to extant Cincinnati Depot tents.  These tents would have begun manufacture late in 1863.  Moulton was the inspector between November '63 and February '64.  This tent is a replica of one believed to have been used at Knoxville, and on Sherman's march to the sea.  These are perfect for campaign events around Nashville, Franklin, Atlanta, &c.  I will also be producing a replica of tent #8, which is a completely hand sewn version with an unusual pieced lower panel.  Western Federals look no further!