Friday, February 15, 2013

1840s Military Broadfall Trousers!

These are warm weather (summer) trousers for the Mexican War period, from a pattern I extrapolated from period tailor's guides and photos of original garments.  Some construction details, including the single welt pocket in the bearer (the original had none), were derived from a very nice pair of repros (I believe by Steve Abolt) I borrowed.  The main feature of these trousers is the ultra high waist that is so necessary for wear with the short jackets and coatees of the period.  The waist rises well above the navel, lying close to the rib cage. Now you can wear a properly cut jacket without your shirt peeking through!

The trousers are constructed of unbleached twilled cotton canvas (basically denim).  All visible stitching is by hand, though interior seams are machined.  All allowances are hand felled, and buttonholes and eyelets are hand stitched.  The pictured buttons are 1/2" bone, though future trousers will have pewter or stamped tin buttons.  I can now produce these in a number of sizes, cost TBD.

Trousers, jacket, shirt, and collar by A.J. Keehan.  Forage cap by Don Smith.  Stock by Nick Duvall.  Bootees by Robert Serio.  Quilt by Judith Peebles.

Monday, February 11, 2013

New! Cincinnati Depot shelter halves!

Now available to order.  Type 2b Cincinnati Depot shelter halves.  This one is based on tent #11 from The Federal Civil War Shelter Tent by Fred Gaede.  It is made from three panels of cotton drill, pieced horizontally, and machine stitched.  The buttonholes and grommets are done by hand.  This tent features darkened bone buttons with backing reinforcements, 1/4" manila ropes, and George F. Moulton's inspector stamp.  These features are common to extant Cincinnati Depot tents.  These tents would have begun manufacture late in 1863.  Moulton was the inspector between November '63 and February '64.  This tent is a replica of one believed to have been used at Knoxville, and on Sherman's march to the sea.  These are perfect for campaign events around Nashville, Franklin, Atlanta, &c.  I will also be producing a replica of tent #8, which is a completely hand sewn version with an unusual pieced lower panel.  Western Federals look no further!